Monday, April 27, 2009

4-27-2009 Mon - Revitalized

Current location: Hot Springs, NC
Total miles hiked: 271.8

Bout to get back on the trail, met some great folks here in town. Elmer's Hostel - The Sunnybank Inn was great, lots of good vibes, really old victorian house that was super cozy. Didn't wanna leave today! Roomed with Freebird (this one I met at NOC, there are 2 guys named Freebird on the trail right now both in town.) Went to soak in the springs with the Freebird that I was hiking with, along with Treebeard and Dartanyan. Later hung out with Ziggy and his g/f, hes from Dallas, finally meeting some TX hikers!

Thank you all for your comments and support, it is much appreciated and I read them all!

Have a great weekend everyone, I'll write again soon, next entries will include pics I promise!

Love,
Basher

4-25-2009 Sat - Max Patch = Bliss

Start point: Max Patch Summit
End point: Hot Springs, NC
miles hike: 19.8

Wow, woke up and got to check out the view that I couldn't see last night because of darkness. It was amazing. Took some pics that I'm gonna post just as soon as I can. Its kinda cool hiking into places at night and then getting the amazing suprise view the next day. 360 degree views, what a great spot. I think this is my favorite morning of the trip. Another gorgeous sunny day, lots of spring/stream crossings today that were really pretty. One big climb up Bluff Mtn 4686 elev, then lots of down. Hot Springs, NC is at 1326 elev.. Made it in town about an hour before dark, finally caught up to Skywalker. We ate at the diner then he was going back to his motel room, I heard about some free tent sites down the AT by the French Broad River which runs through Hot Springs so I went there and set up. Ran into Wrath, that guy I met my first day on the approach trail, very suprised he is still on the trail. He's got an external frame pack and some hiking boots now that have been given to him, so I guess he's doing allright for himself. Gonna hang out tomorrow and mabe stay at the hostel, I have a package from my Aunt at the post office so I gotta wait till Mon morn. That will give me time to enjoy the hot springs, do some laundry and rest my feet after that nearly 20 mile day. ;)

4-24-2009 Fri - Mountains Kick my Butt

Start point: State Line Branch
End point: Max Patch Summit
miles hiked: 14.7

Slept very well. Didn't even put my rain fly on my tent so I could fall asleep looking at the stars, there were some lightning bugs out too. Nice morn, when I woke up there wasn't even much of a chill that you normally get in the mornings. It was only a short hike to Standing Bear Farms Hostel where I stopped to get some fuel for my alcohol stove. I forgot to mention about how much my appetite increased in the smoky mountains. I got so hungry... When I went to town back in Gatlinburg I bought so much food I was worried about straps breaking on my pack, it weighed so much. I didn't mind the weight though, it hurt my shoulders sometimes but when I get hungry I can eat as much as I want. Standing Bear Farms is really a cool spot, probably should have stayed there but was trying to save money. Fan into Freebird, Anything, and Symphony, who I had all met before. After I left there it got hot! That did not make the next part very easy, which went from 1800 elev to 4263 in less than 5 miles. Stopped at Groundhog Creek Shelter for lunch. Freebird showed up, we've been passing each other all day and talking abit. He is from Las Vegas. Nice guy, we'll prob end up hiking together abit, kind of on the same pace. We talked about trying to make it to Max Patch summit to tent, which was 7 mi away. Oh my god, those hills inbetween Brown Gap and Max Patch Rd killed me. There must have been at least 5 ups and downs that were huge. At one point I came over the top of one, and saw another I was about to have to climb and yelled "you gotta be kidding me!". Its one of those times 3 miles feels like 6. When I finally got to Max Patch Rd it was getting dark so I hiked up to the summit in the dark with my headlamp on. Came up on a fire at the summit and said "hey thanks for keeping the fire going for me!". Someone said "heres a wedding crasher". A couple had just gotten married, they did the ceremony on the summit right before sunset. They and all their friends were celebrating and hanging out when I got there and they gave me a beer and made me feel welcome. Had a couple pieces of cookie cake and a carrotcake cupcake, yum! Had a wonderful time getting to know Rob and Ellie's (the newlyweds) and all their friends, all avid kayakers from Ashville, NC and the surrounding area. Hung out with them late into the night and then set up my tent, again with no rain fly for another starry night. Saw a shooting star at one point before I went to sleep.

4-23-2009 Thur - More Sun!

Start point: Tri Corner Knob Shelter
End point: State Line Branch
miles hiked: 17

Met Patience at the shelter. He is a good kid from Lubbock. He's deaf so we did some conversation back and forth with pen and pad. He did Springer to Damascus last year and came back this year to do the whole thing, he didn't want to be considered a section hiker. :)
Skipping Stones and his wife Laura were there too. I've run into them about 3 times now. They are a fun middle-aged couple from Chucky, TN who got married in Jan, so I guess this could be and interesting time to learn even more about each other. It was another beautiful day for hiking, abit hotter than yesterday, I got down to just a shirt and shorts pretty quick. This 2nd half of the Smoky Mountains has been alot easier imho, although I say that having rolled my ankle again twice today. Guess it was not 100% yet from that time last week. You really have to be careful how you step, some of these trails are really rocky. Its a little swollen again now so I guess I'm gonna wrap it again tomorrow. Exited the GSMNP at around 4pm. It really is a pretty national park. I'll give it an A overall. ;)
Set up camp about a mile outside the park, neat little site to tent next to a couple streams in a valley. Figured out if I do 16 days of hiking 15 mi a day I'll be in Damascus well before Trail Days, and I've heard you simply have to go to Trail Days.

4-22-2009 Wed - Favorite Day So Far!

Start point: Newfound Gap
End point: Tri Corner Knob Shelter
miles hiked: 15.6

We went to Shoney's for breakfast and then got a ride right away. We didn't ever ask, just started walking toward the park entrance and some day hikers who were headed up to the Blue Ridge Parkway pulled over and asked us if we needed a ride. Hardly any clouds, blue skies, bright sun. Hands down my favorite day on the trail so far. Magnificent views, Charlies Bunion was cool. Its a rocky outcrop at 5,905 elev. Some great little narrow ridges that were fun to hike, its like you are on the top of a ridgeline and steep sides going down on either side of you. Guessing it was in the low 60's all day, prefect temp for hiking! Some thoughts that were swimming around my head about the future and endless possiblities. Amazing what some good weather can do for you mood. The sun makes me happy!

"your music are tomorrow's unknown known life. I love tomorrow..." -Conrad Roberts

4-21-2009 Tues - Snore, snore, snore

Start point: Mt Collins Shelter
End point: Newfound Gap
miles hiked: 4.5

Got up late, didn't get very good sleep due to one of the noiseiest snore-ers I've ever slept around. This guy was at least 10 ft from me, I had earplugs, and he still kept me up. At some points you could feel the snore's through the wooden shelter floor. If you know you snore like that and are gonna be somewhere like a public sleeping shelter get some breath strips or something.. Grrr.
Caught a ride into Gatlinburg to buy more food. Guys who gave me a ride had just finished a 3 day hike through the park and they gave me all their leftover dehydrated meals! So nice of them, those things are like $5 apiece. Ran into Butch as I was going to the grocery store, we had met at Neels Gap Hostel. Decided to split a room w/him, it would be easier to catch a ride back up to Newfound Gap in the morn when everyone is going up for the day. Went to a bar called Hogs and Honey's, lol. Met some good folks who I ended up hanging out with playing pool.

4-20-2009 Mon - Highest Peak on the AT

Start point: Derrick Knob Shelter
End point: Mt Collins Shelter
miles hiked: 13.5

Sucks putting on wet socks and shoes in the cold cold mountain mornings. No way to get around it though, when it keeps raining there is no way to dry 'em out. Summiting Clingmans Dome today, its the highest peak on the AT, but by no means the most difficult climb. Definitley got a smoky mountain experience today. It stopped raining for awhile today and the sun tried to peek through, you could see across the gap's where the fog was rolling across and the sun chasing it away. Didn't last though, got colder as I approached the summit. Climbed the concrete spiral tower up the dome and it started sleeting. Slogging through the mud, getting pissed everytime I step in a muddy area deep enough to have water which re-soaks my already wet socks. Thought about how when I was getting going, lets say the first 150 miles, it was like an adventure. Today I wondered why I would put myself through this torture. I just pound out the miles, I'm sure it will get better.

4-19-2009 Sun

Start point: Russel Field Shelter
End point: Derrick Knob Shelter
miles hiked: 9.2

Some tough mountains made tougher by rain all day, muddy trails, fog, and cold winds. With fog like this there is not much to see so basically you just get in a zone and push through the miles. Wanted to go farther but was pretty cold and hungry so I stopped at this shelter.

4-18-2009 Sat - Great Smoky Mountains National Park

Start point: Fontana Hilton
End point: Russel Field Shelter
miles hiked: 14

Woke up, wrapped my ankle with an ace bandage that Ty gave me. Got some new insoles from a hiker box, I think some of my ankle problems were caused by the Dr Scholls insoles I had bought in Hiawassee, they were too high under my heel and made the back of my ankle rub on my shoe wrong. Crossed the dam and headed into the Smoky Mountains. Whole day was beautiful, a little hot when going up some of the big climbs. Got to some areas where there were tons of little white flowers covering the hills, kinda makes it feel more like spring. Things are starting to get pretty green finally. At Mollies Ridge Shelter a ridge runner who works for the park suggested I go to the next shelter because it was only another hour walk and it would make tomorrows hike alot easier. On the AT in the Smoky Mountains you are required to sleep in the shelters and can only tent out if they are full. This is because the amount of bears that live in the park. Some of the shelters are fenced in, it cracked me up when someone told me it was like the hiker exhibit, we're the ones in the cage ;)
Saw my first black bear today. Well I saw it run off. Those guys are fast! It was prob a cub, around 110-130lbs, it took off after it heard me coming and I watched it run up the hill and dissappear. Saw a few chipmunks and a millipede. Up until today all I'd seen were squirrels and birds.

4-17-2009 Fri

Fontana Hilton

I had rolled my ankle a couple times yesterday and when I woke up it was pretty swollen and hurt to walk on it so I took a day off. It felt better by the end of the day so I'm going to hike out tomorrow. They call it the Fontana Hilton because it holds 24 people, I'm guessing its one of the biggest shelters on the AT. Its right next to Fontana Lake and just a few hundred yards from the dam, very pretty views.

4-16-2009 Thur - Fontana Dam

Start point: Brown Fork Gap Shelter
End point: Fontana Hilton (Shelter)
miles hiked: 12.7

Met One-Step in the morning. He is from Houston but lives in San Diego right now. He got in late last light so I didn't talk to him but we talked quite abit today before I left. Turned out to be a really nice day with plenty of sun.

4-15-2009 Wed

Start point: near Swim Bald
End point: Brown Fork Gap Shelter
miles hiked: 11mi

Made it up Swim Bald in the morning fog then stopped and made breakfast at Sassafras Gap Shelter. Its nice to eat at the shelters because they usually have a little bench and spot to cook on so you are not sitting on the ground. Ran into Moxie there as she was packing up. It was overcast most of the afternoon. My knee is feeling better, those trekking poles are really helping out.

4-14-2009 Tues

Start point: NOC
End point: near Swim Bald
miles hiked: 5

Package didn't come Mon either so I've been here longer that I've wanted to stay, but it has been free since I've just been tenting so I guess its not that bad. This site on the river is a gorgeous spot too, so I can't complain about that either. Package finally arrived around 4:30pm so I by the time I got packed up and left the NOC I only had a couple hrs of sunlight left. Hiked for quite awhile in the dark trying to make up miles for those extra days off. Found a nice single tent site right off the trail while going up Swim Bald Mtn.

4-12-2009 Sun - NOC

Woke up to find a great view of the Nantahala river which we camped next to. Beautiful day, nice and sunny. Put up a line between trees and dried out all my stuff that had gotten wet fri night. Went to town to see if my packed I'm waiting on had arrived. It hadn't so I'm hanging out here another day. Moved my tent site a little up river to hang out with Gary and his dog Pepper, who I had met fri at the gap where the trail magic was. We chilled out and enjoyed the nice sunny day. He has hiked different parts of the AT for the last 4 years so he had a lot of good info for me.

4-11-2009 Sat - Nantahala River Valley

Start point: Burningtown Gap
End point: Nantahala Outdoor Center (NOC)
miles hiked: 12.7

Woke up early and made some breakfast, but it was really foggy and dreary and some of my clothes had gotten wet the night before, so I went back to sleep in hopes the sun would come out. Finally just decided to suck it up and leave at around 1:30pm, they teased me for hanging out at trail magic for almost a full day, but it was all in good fun. After I got to the top of Wesser Bald I climbed the staircase up to the top of the observation tower, it was still so foggy there was no view but it was a pretty cool tower. Once I was past the Wesser Bald shelter you go through about 5 miles of downhills, some of which are very steep, plus that much down can be rough on your knees. The fog finally broke and I got an incredible view of the Nantahala River Valley. Hiked in the dark for about an hour and finally as I neared the NOC I ran into Jess and Julia who were night hiking back to the last shelter because everything at the NOC was closed. Told them I was going to a spot Mello Yello had told me about just down river from the NOC where there were some free tent sites right along the river, they decided to come along. So we all went down and found a good site, set up camp, made dinner and passed out.

4-10-2009 Fri - Trail Magic

Start point: Wayah Shelter
End point: Burningtown Gap
miles hiked: 3.6

Lots of thunderstorms in the morning. Really loud thunder and some lightning very nearby. Waited out the nasty weather until around noon and then got going. Didn't make it too far before running into some folks doing trail magic. I know what some of you are thinking, "trail magic, that sounds really cheesy". Yes the name is kinda cheesy but what they are doing is great. Basically people come out to a spot on the AT and feed the hikers coming by. Here it was Diamond Dough and his wife Di, who had sodas, Little Debbie snacks and bananas, and Brave Friend and Mello Yello were cooking burgers and hot-dogs and had soda and beer. These 2 groups were not together, which was funny, they just happened to pick the same spot the same weekend to do trail magic! I hung out a little too long, but they assurred me I was not wearing out my welcome. I was just having such a good time talking to those folks! Meant to head out later that day but after numerous beers and some whiskey I ended up just setting up my tent and spending the night. I actually did try to leave but I walked about 100 yards up the trail and it started raining hard again, which was my perfect excuse to stay.

4-09-2009 Thur - Leaving Franklin

Start point: Winding Stairs Gap
End point: Wayah Shelter
miles hiked: 11

Took it nice and slow today. Great weater, the kind of sun that reminds me of the Bay Area in California. Just hot enough to warm the top of your skin, and the perfect breeze to cool you off. Perfect day to climb Wayah Bald, from the stone observation tower at the top you could see all the way to Clingmans Dome, the highest peak in the Smoky Mountains (prob 50-60mi away). Ran into Catching Dreams and Cimarron again. Cimarron is an 86 year old guy, if he completes a thru hike he will be the oldest to have done it. Ate some dinner and went to sleep pretty early.
Both the pics were taken from the stone observation tower at Wayah Bald

Wednesday, April 8, 2009

4-08-2009 Wed - My Feet Hurt

Franklin, NC...again...

Ok, last day off for awhile I swear! I took a picture of the back of my heels, when I get it developed I'll upload it and that will explain all these days off..
I'm headed out tomorrow morn and will have enough food to stay out for at least 7 days. I'm watching a Spurs game right now, so gotta get back to that, didn't think I'd get to see any Spurs games while I was out here. I got my trekking poles today, so those are gonna be a huge help, I've heard they take about 30% of the pressure off your knees.
Hopefully next time I update I'll be in Tennessee. I'm gonna miss Franklin after spending so much time here, its a cool little town. :)

Tuesday, April 7, 2009

4-07-2009 Tue - More Snow!

Start point: Carter Gap Shelter
End point: Winding Stairs Gap
miles hiked: 16
There was a couple inches of snow when I got up this morning. Some estimates were it got down to close to 20 degrees over the course of the night. It got down to 27 in Franklin, and they say you can usually take 10 degrees off that if you're in the mountains. It was a bit of a pain packing up my tent in freezing conditions, it hurts when your fingers freeze! Lots of snow on the trail, this is not good conditions for hiking in trail runners. Hiked about 10 miles in the snow before I got to parts of the trail where it had already melted. I hiked all the way to the gap and then got a ride to Franklin, NC. It's supposed to get to 27 degrees tonight so I wanted to get in a nice hot room, I'm just not prepared gear wise for this kind of cold. Hopefully this is the last cold snap, I'm ready for spring!! It seems like I just keep getting bombarded with this unfavorable weather. I thought after my first 3 days of rain and fog I had proved myself, like the trail is trying to weed out those not ready for this. So now I survived snow and a night of freezing conditions, whats next I wonder, a plague? Is a solid week of sun too much to ask!? ;) So I don't think I should have pushed on and done those 16 miles, I started to feel a hot spot on my right heel and stopped to bandage it, but I guess I didn't do a good enough job because when I got to town and checked, it did not look good. Rubbed a spot raw, not a blister, just missing a couple layers of skin. Gonna stay in town another night tomorrow (Wed) and get back out on the trail Thur morning. These pics below were taken just a few miles away from the shelter. The pic above was taken right outside the shelter.


In this one below you are looking down the trail, that white mark on the tree is one of the white blazes that marks the trail.

4-06-2009 Mon - Snow!?

Start point: Muskrat Creek Shelter
End point: Carter Gap Shelter
miles hiked: 12.5

Woke up and it was COLD. We had seen the forecast over the weekend but we didn't think it was gonna get real cold till Tues. Made breakfast and took forever to get going. Was basically the last one out of camp, again.. I just can't move that fast in the cold mornings. Once I got going I could start to feel my toes again after about 10min of hiking. It started snowing shortly after that, after a few hrs of light snow it started to look like some kind of winter wonderland. After about 5 easy miles had lunch at Standing Indian Shelter. Once I was done it took another 20min to feel my fingers again. Got to camp, made some dinner and hung around the fire with some other folks for just abit before getting ready for bed. Its supposed to snow 2 inches over the course of the night so I wanna make sure I have everything set so I don't freeze! Hope I can stay warm enough for a little sleep.

4-05-2009 Sun - 1 State Down, 13 to Go

Start point: Dicks Creek Gap
End point: Muskrat Creek Shelter
miles hiked: 11.8

Bulldog and his wife (who we met at the bash) were nice enough to drop Moxie, Skywalker and I off back at where we left the trail, Dicks Creek Gap. Today we crossed the GA/NC state line and we are officially done with GA! Nice sunny day. Still trying to get used to hiking in the sun, after so much rain and fog it seems like anything other than that is just odd. Cooked a nice hot meal of cheesy rice and broccoli mixed with ramen and summer sausage. Gotta get creative with this trail food. This is me at the GA/NC state line, these pics didn't come out very well unfortunately.

4-03-2009 - 04-04-2009 Fri and Sat - April Fools Hiker Bash

Franklin, NC

So a great guy named Ron Haven owns the Budget Inn, Sapphire Inn and a hostel in Franklin and this is the 2nd year he's put together this April Fools Hiker Bash. Lots of hikers come from all over to get together (kind of like a smaller scale Trail Days). Lots of good food and good people. Met too many folks to name.. Had pork chops, pulled pork, beans, rice, meatloaf, mashers. It probably helped my knee and ankle alot having 2 days off. Synopsis: hikers are an interesting bunch. ;)

Thursday, April 2, 2009

4-02-2009 Thur - Hiawassee, GA

Start point: Deep Gap Shelter
End point: Dicks Creek Gap
miles hiked: 3.8

Took it easy today, just hiked to the road and got a ride to town. Staying in town with Moxi, Skywalker, Snuggles and Damascus. I really think I do need a zero day to see if it will help my knee (and the back of my ankle, its like everyday a different part of me hurts!). Plus if I have to take a zero day this is the perfect time, we are all going to get a ride to Franklin, NC and stay fri and sat for a Hiker Bash. I don't really know the details but it sounds like alot of fun, and I think everyone is in the same boat, get outta this wet weather for awhile and enjoy the company of some fellow hikers.

4-01-2009 Wed - B-day on the AT!

Start point: Tray Mtn Shelter
End point: Deep Gap Shelter
miles hiked: 8
miles from Springer: 64

Last night I had told the 2 girls I tented next to that it was almost my birthday. They told me happy birthday this morning and Baltimore Jack overheard that, so he gave me a brownie w/a birthday candle in it and everyone sang happy birthday to me. There were a bunch of people at the shelter, I met Damascus and his huge dog Charles, Skywalker, Moxi, Snuggles, the Dude, and Baltimore Jack who I had met at Neels Gap. Got to Deep Gap after some steep ascents, almost 1000 ft in 1 mile. That hill was huge, it felt like it just kept going up and up, no switchbacks either! Great weather for my birthday, it was foggy and cold in the morn but it cleared up and got so sunny and warm I had to change into my shorts and just a t-shirt. A few of us chipped in with Baltimore Jack and made a communal meal. Nice and sunny the whole rest of the day. Got another birthday candle, this time in a Nutrigrain bar! Shared my bourbon with everyone and slept in the top of the shelter, another one of those cool ones, this one had 2 seperate lofts, almost like a shelter version of a 4 plex!

3-31-2009 Tue

Start point: Low Gap Shelter
End point: Tray Mtn Shelter
miles hiked: 15

During the night we had some mouse problems and at one point Freeze woke me up, he said "Rob, I think a mouse is messin with your stuff!" I jumped up and Freeze was already standing up with his head lamp pointing were the mouse was, I saw it, grabbed my shoe and said, "should I bash it?" I heard Ski say yes, so I bashed the mouse and brushed it out of the shelter, henceforth I am Basher. Hiked with Freeze until Blue Mtn Shelter where we had lunch, then parted ways. At Unicoi Gap I was gonna try and get a ride 7 or so miles into Helen, GA, and Freeze was going to hike on. I needed to go into town to get a few things, namely some bourbon for my birthday. Got a ride there easily, took awhile to get a ride back though, and then decided to hike on to Tray Mtn, which was tough, a 1480 ft climb in elevation. Did the last 1.5 miles in the dark, hiking with my headlamp on. That was interesting to say the least.

3-30-2009 Mon - Hiked with Freeze

Start point: Neels Gap
End point: Low Gap Shelter
miles hiked: 10.8

Couldn't sleep that well once again, and this time I was in a warm bed indoors! I think it was the anticipation of the sun coming out, no more rain and fog! Well that and I had a top bunk and every dude in there was snoring. Sent home about 3lbs of clothes, w/the sleeping bag liner I shouldn't need em. Weighed my pack again, 37lbs with food and water. Still more than I want it to weigh but it feels better because I think I'm packing it more efficiently now. Headed out later than I mean to, but that turned out to be a blessing in disguise because a church group had just started giving out free burgers, they were cooking to feed hikers passing by. The sun was out and there was no fog! Wow, there is actually sun in Georgia, I was starting to wonder.. After I started hiking for abit Freeze passed me up, but we were going just about the same pace so we hiked together. We had met briefly last night at the hostel. Finally we got some great views in the sunlight, stopped at Levelland Mtn to enjoy the scenery. Could see for miles and miles, so beautiful. Sharp pain again in my left knee, kinda worries me. Taking it very slow on the downhills. After about 6 miles Freeze let me use his trekking poles on the downhills, made it way less painful. He went ahead and let me use them for the rest of the day. We made it to Low Gap Shelter, made dinner, made a fire. Hung out with a couple other hikers that are here. Ski had some good stories.